what should you check before choosing a firearm for hunting? In this article we will tell you everything you have to know about.
What points will be covered in this article:
- inspection of accompanying documentation for weapons;
- examination of marks;
- examination of the external condition of the weapon;
- inspection of the internal condition of the weapon.
Gun documents
The passport always indicates the manufacturer of the weapon, its main characteristics and indicators, suitability for use with certain ammunition, gunpowder and attachments – which is especially important in the case of rare, collectible, piece and used guns. The whole point is that old guns may not be designed for use with modern powders and attachments – which can be a tangible barrier to their operation. The gun looks strong, thick – but it will not withstand smokeless nitro powder and modern attachments. It is worth remembering – and it is worth knowing about it, especially when choosing relatively old guns. However, not all information about the gun is indicated and not everything is branded. All the information you are interested in, which should be indicated, is indicated in the documentation. If there is no documentation, this is indicated on the stamps, which you should also study. All the necessary information on hallmarks is now freely available on the Internet – which greatly simplifies the procedure for choosing a weapon when buying. Just take your smart phone with internet and make it easy(What should you check before choosing a firearm for hunting).

Visual inspection of the shootgun
The kit for monitoring the condition of the gun should include:
- caliper or micrometer;
- ramrod and vishers, as well as a piece of clean cloth for cleaning;
- another piece of pure white (this is important) matter;
- sleeve of the caliber corresponding to the caliber of your future gun – with and without imitation capsule;
- a flashlight and a small mirror.
Visual inspection
Start by checking the weapon’s appearance. Visual (that is, with the eyes) control of the condition of the paintwork of wooden parts, the condition of the coating of metal parts. Inspect the gun for damage – cracks, scratches, chips, etc. flaws. Pay special attention to the quality of the fit of the wood and metal parts. There should be no gaps in the mating of these parts. Check the barrels from the outside – with sufficient light. The barrel of the weapon must be even, smooth; scratches, potholes, swelling of the barrel are not allowed. It is also recommended to do a check on the glare of light on the barrel – it should go smoothly, without bends, not expanding and bending, but only slightly tapering from one end of the barrel to the other(What should you check before choosing a firearm for hunting).
Internal inspection of the weapon
Next, check the condition of the barrels. This is where a ramrod, vishers and a rag can come in handy – the inside of the weapon barrel can be covered with conservation grease, which makes it difficult to visually check the barrel through the light. The internal condition is also checked visually through the light. First, the absence of major damage inside the trunk is controlled – the presence of shells, etc. products. Then they check the so-called. concentricity. This is an important indicator that indicates the marriage of the weapon barrel and / or its damage. The fact is that when you look at the barrel in the light, you can see shadow rings. They are considered concentric when they are actually even and are at the same distance from each other – a similar picture corresponds to the optimal state of the weapon barrel. Let us dwell only on the variant of a simple definition of concentricity. To do this, you should have a sheet of white paper and a sleeve with an empty capsular hole. A beam of light (best of all, of course) should fall on a sheet of paper. A sleeve is inserted into the chamber. The muzzle hole of the barrel does not look at the light source, but at the LEAF. The barrel is inspected through the capsular opening – simple and convenient.
To check the trunk for shells, it will be useful to carry out the following manipulation. Using white cloth, rolled into a ball around the diameter of the barrel, plug the muzzle hole of the gun. Then, illuminate it with a flashlight from the side of the breech. This way you can see the condition of the barrel and breech. They should be even and intact, ideally representing a “mirror”, however, slight damage is also allowed. The same method will make it possible to exclude the possibility of catching a “fluffy” barrel. This often happens when buying old and used guns and is a form of fraud. This is such a rough pre-sale preparation, designed for a fool. The fact is that the shustovka of the trunk is the process of removing metal by an abrasive method to remove shells. Such a trunk, when checked by the methods described above, will be in the “mirror”, has concentricity. However, compare the condition of the barrel and other parts of the weapon. See the discrepancy in state? Chips on the tree, wear of the block, slight “overcrowding” and wear, rounding of sharp corners from time to time cannot be combined with ideal mirror trunks. This is a clear sign of smartness – it is absolutely not worth taking such a weapon.
By itself, burnout is not terrible and is easily treated by removing defective metal in any way and installing spacers (for example, brand pipes) in the shield. However, the problem lies deeper. Through burnout, combustion products penetrate into the trigger mechanism, which negatively affects the service life of this system.
Similarly, with the help of cartridge cases with a capsule, the mechanisms of extraction in shotguns with extractors are checked, and in pump-action and self-loading shotguns – the mechanisms of chambering. An important factor when buying is the condition of the muzzle. The fact is that the muzzle of the weapon is responsible for the correct exit of the projectile from the barrel. The slope at the muzzle in a smoothbore weapon reduces accuracy – moreover, quite noticeably. The ideal muzzle of a smoothbore gun is smooth, rounded, with clearly defined external and internal edges. Any deviations of the muzzle of the smoothbore are unacceptable, because they lead to a deterioration in the accuracy and accuracy of the battle. So, for example, the roundness of the muzzle indicates a plentiful shot, and the presence of a chamfer on the cut indicates a significant weapon service. However, this rule should be used only for smooth barrels – rifled weapons have a chamfer on the muzzle by default. Checking the muzzle is simple – there is an elementary old-fashioned method for this, proven over generations and years. Just rest the gun on the floor or table so that the muzzle hole is on top (and the butt rests on the floor / table) and with a little effort plug the muzzle hole with a soft pad of the palm of your hand in the area of the thumb for a few seconds. A muzzle imprint is formed on the pad, which you can check. so that the muzzle hole is on top (and the butt rests on the floor / table) and with a little effort plug the muzzle hole with a soft pad of the palm of your hand in the area of \u200b\u200bthe thumb for a few seconds. A muzzle imprint is formed on the pad, which you can check. so that the muzzle hole is on top (and the butt rests on the floor / table) and with a little effort plug the muzzle hole with a soft pad of the palm of your hand in the area of \u200b\u200bthe thumb for a few seconds. A muzzle imprint is formed on the pad, which you can check.
The next factor to pay attention to when checking weapons is soldering control. So, in any gun, the soldering of the aiming bar is checked, and in double-barreled guns, in addition, the bar fixing the two barrels into the block is checked. Checking the soldering is quite simple – just hang the gun with the front swivel or the upper underbarrel hook and lightly “tap” the bar with the non-working part of the ramrod. A dull sound with a slight rattling indicates poor soldering or wear of the assembly. Of course, you should not take such a weapon.
The final stage of verification includes.
Checking the diameters of chambers and muzzles with a caliper or micrometer. Everything is simple here – ideally, these data should correspond to the data indicated in the passport or on the Internet. A small discrepancy is not critical, but affects the accuracy of shooting bullet cartridges. If there are large discrepancies in the diameter values, you should refuse to buy a gun. The chamber, in addition, before checking with a caliper or micrometer, it is worth checking with a sleeve – failures and significant shanks of the sleeve in the chamber are unacceptable. muzzle contractions. controlled visually. A slight lack of alignment – an inevitable drop in accuracy and scree in the case of shooting with shot and buckshot and a change in the average aiming point in the case of a bullet. Significant lack of alignment – possible breaks and blowing of the trunk. You should refuse to buy a gun with a missing alignment.
Checking the locking mechanism of guns for noiselessness, smoothness and completeness of locking. It is controlled visually, by sound and indicates the fitting of parts, and in case of turning point guns – the contact between the pad and the breech of the barrels. The latter, by the way, is simply checked – by blowing air through the barrel from the muzzle to the breech. The presence of effort and its strength indicate the completeness of the fit of the breech and block. If there is no effort, the weapon should be abandoned; this is a clear sign of marriage or wear of parts. Checking the shaft of the barrel in the stock of the gun. This is felt when the gun is slightly rocked – just remove the fore-end, open the locking mechanism of the gun and put your thumb on the breech and pad shield. When shaking, the thumb pad will clearly feel slight backlash. The longitudinal and transverse shaft is checked. When checking self-loading rifles and pump-action products, the thumb of one hand should lie on the border of the receiver and barrel, while the assembled weapon, held by the other hand by the receiver, swings. The presence of shafts is not allowed if the gun has a shaft of barrels – it is better to refuse to buy it.
There are several things you should consider when choosing a firearm for hunting:
- Purpose: First and foremost, consider what you will be using the firearm for. Different types of firearms are better suited for different types of hunting, such as shotguns for birds, rifles for big game, and handguns for small game.
- Caliber: The caliber of a firearm refers to the size of the bullet it uses. Larger calibers are typically more effective for hunting larger animals, while smaller calibers are better suited for smaller game.
- Action: The action of a firearm refers to the mechanism that loads, fires, and ejects the rounds. There are several types of actions, including bolt-action, lever-action, and semi-automatic. Choose the action that best fits your needs and preferences.
- Barrel length: The length of the barrel can affect the accuracy and range of the firearm. A longer barrel may provide better accuracy, but a shorter barrel may be more maneuverable in tight spaces.
- Weight: The weight of the firearm can be important, especially if you will be carrying it for long periods of time. Consider whether you want a lightweight firearm that is easy to carry, or a heavier firearm that may be more stable and accurate.
- Price: Finally, consider your budget when choosing a firearm. Hunting firearms can range in price from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars. Determine how much you are willing to spend and look for a firearm that fits within your budget.
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Some info about guns topic:
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